Adventure time in Oman – Visit Wadi Shab after the rain

Sometimes travel adventures can’t be planned, they just happen. And this is one of those adventures. I just rented a car and was on my way from Sur to As Sifah with stops in between. One stop was in Tiwi Beach, where also the entrance to Wadi Shab is.

The day I arrived at Tiwi Beach the weather was still cloudy and hazy. It wasn’t safe to hike the Wadi Shab. Because of the cloud’s appearance, there was still the possibility of rain. I was playing with the thought of driving on to the direction of Muscat. But I stayed and checked into an inn.

Researching the hike and making plans

Researching the hike, I was also unsure of doing it. Apparently, it is long, slippery and steep. I’m scared of heights and it seemed to be a harder hike, where also kids and elderly do it. How hard can it actually be? An adventure for their lifetimes?

Via couchsurfing, I chatted with a girl who also wanted to do the hike. She texted me that she would be there at 10 am coming with another girl, but she will let me know when they depart from their place. I went to the entrance of the hike, texted her a few minutes after 10. No response. Since I’m not a patient person. I stepped inside the boat that brought me to the other side. Little did I know the adventure that lay ahead.

The hike to Wadi Shab starts at the outflow of the river underneath the highway bridge. In order to cross this river and get to the starting point of the hike, there is a boat that brings visitors from one side to the other and vice versa. This boat costs 1 Riyal and includes both ways.

Exploring Wadi Shab in Oman barefoot after the rain

The boat ride was very short and when I arrived on the other side, into dense vegetation, I was wondering where the path continues. I walked through the mud, unable to find the path. So, I checked my phone; no messages from the girl who wanted to join me. Earlier, a guide had asked if I needed help, and I said no, but maybe I did.

Soon, two girls appeared and said it was a long way. The path was ankle-deep in water and very muddy. I took off my shoes and started walking. The water wasn’t clear, and I felt tense, wondering about dangerous animals. I calmed myself, thinking the animals had likely disappeared with so many people around.

After the waterlogged path, I put my shoes on, then off again to cross a huge puddle. The water was knee-deep in places, with a huge tree in the middle. I was scared because I couldn’t see the ground, so I waited until other hikers appeared. Still no message from the girl, so I put my phone in flight mode and crossed the puddle. Then I continued barefoot.

The water crossings

Next, I needed to cross a clear, small stream. Soon, I was walking along a rocky path with a steep cliff and a riverbed beside it. The path was smooth under my bare feet and cool in the shadows. The deep green river to my left meandered through the rock formations, with points to jump into the water.

I was amazed by the landscape, but it quickly changed. I arrived at a point with two big water crossings. The current was strong, and the path led into the river. The first crossing was knee deep, the second hip-deep. I was scared but excited for the adventure. I put on my swimsuit and went for it.

Other people were helping each other out. A group of French people with children helped me with the deeper crossing. There were actually two hip-deep crossings, but I climbed around one. It was fun to climb the slippery rocks with my bare feet. At the bigger crossing, a French woman helped me, and I nearly forgot to brace against the current. But everything went well.

I continued barefoot, still feeling the adrenaline from those crossings. This path would probably be blocked in Austria for being too dangerous. Luckily, I was in Oman and ready for adventure.

At the end of the walk already?

I walked a little and asked an Italian couple, who was on their back, how much further it was. “It’s there”- they said and were surprised that I was on my own. I told them that some people helped me at water crossings. A few more meters and I was indeed at the end. From here I swam against the current to the end of the pool. Usually you can get into a very tiny tunnel and a cave, but the water level was too high that day. 

The fun part was to get back to the pool I entered. I let the current take me down. At one part, the rocks underneath my feet were very smooth, and I stood on them. It felt like surfing in the water.

The way back was also fun. The ground was a bit hotter, not so comfortable to walk barefoot. 
There were two groups with tour guides this time that helped me with the dangerous water crossings. My hope that the water level might drop a little didn’t come true. Nevertheless, it was so much fun to do this hike. Even though I ended up doing it alone. It was one of the best adventures in Oman.

Questions about Wadi Shab

Do you need a tour guide for Wadi Shab?

After reading a blog post about Wadi Shab I thought I would need one. But after doing the tour, I was sure under normal circumstances I do not need one (“normal” water levels).
You can still go after the rain to Wadi Shab by yourself. I was amazed how everyone helped each other at the water crossings. There was even a line and few people in the middle of the water helping others to cross.
To answer your questions, if you are used to hiking and doing outdoor activities, you do not need a guide. If you are a city person and you spend very little time outdoors doing activities, you might need to consider taking a guide. A guide costs you 15 Riyal from the starting point. You can text this guy. I had a little chat with him when I came back from the hike. He recommended some very helpful insights for the continuing of my trip. 

How hard is the hike, really?

When I researched the hike, I was a little worried that it might be a hard hike. But after reading the experience and having done it myself, I realized how subjective these experiences are. For instance, the bloggers highly recommend decent shoes. I walked most of the path barefoot (not so much on the way back because of the heat). They also pointed out that this isn’t a walk. However, for me it isn’t a hike. Honestly, there is hardly any elevation. To put things into perspective, I’m an Austrian girl. I grew up in the Alps, although I wasn’t always into hiking. For me, hiking means going uphill. Everything else is just a walk.
Also, I didn’t feel the length of the walk. I was surprised when I got to the end that I was already there. Once again, it’s probably my European blood. I’m used to walking a lot.

Is the climbing part true?

I have also read that you need to climb around big rocks. I guess it might have been where the water crossings were. So I can’t tell. But I do not think that it would be a big of a deal. Elderly people and children were doing this hike, so how hard can it be?

Is it slippery?

I can imagine that the path along the rocks can be slippery when wet. But I didn’t notice it on my way back, although many people jumped into the water pools there and climbed back up.

How can I be sure that Wadi Shab is safe after the rain?

I’m pretty sure that Omanis really know their country, climate and weather. Which doesn’t mean there are always right. With climate changing, there are of course new challenges or more extreme weather events. I wouldn’t go to Wadi Shab when it is cloudy and looks like rain. Even the boats aren’t running. I still had to wait a day to have my experience there. Don’t be silly and have that ‘I have to do it all mentality’, because with that you can risk your life. Wadi’s and rain are not to be underestimated in Oman.
For me, the Wadi Shab hike after the rain was an amazing adventure. For others, it might be too dangerous. And that’s ok too. If you aren’t into those adventures, wait for at least a week after the rain before going to Wadi Shab.

All in all, Wadi Shab is a must do while traveling through Oman and an adventure for itself after rainy days.