Theth to Valbona – an adventure in the Albanian Alps

Are you ready for an adventure in an underrated country in Europe? Albania: a nation that is not on everyone’s list when it comes to touring around Europe. But it definitely should be!

Albania has so much to offer for your outdoor adventures, from the demarcated mountain villages to historical towns and gorgeous beaches.

In the north of this hidden nation in Europe are the Albanian Alps, also Accursed Mountains belonging to the Dinaric Alps. This mountain range starts in Slovenia and stretches down a big part of the Balkan peninsula, covering 8 countries: Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Italy, Montenegro, Kosovo, Serbia and Slovenia.

The part that lies on the border between Montenegro, Kosovo and Albania offers a special 10-day circular hiking trail: The Peaks of the Balkans. This is indeed an adventure in itself, but in this blog post, you will learn more about the hike from Theth to Valbone, with the starting and ending point Shkoder.

The adventure drive from Shkoder to Theth

From Shkoder, buses are heading to Theth every morning around 7-7:30, in the high season (summer months). In this case, buses are off-road vehicles. A 4×4 car is necessary for this trip as half of this road is not asphalted and is partly in bad condition.
The cost for the ride is 10 euros and you can book it at your accommodation or the tourist office. Hitchhiking is also an option, but many drivers will ask for money. A friend and I did that. We ended up getting three different rides, learned more about the Albanian culture, and paid five euros each.

The first part of the drive is a flat country road until we reach the beginning of the mountains. A quick stop for coffee and the adventure starts. If you are getting motion sick, have your medicine or plastic bag read. The road is asphalted and winds its way up the hill in a single lane. After the long stretch uphill, it turns into a gravel road.

What I learned in the Balkans: never trust Google Maps. There are either new roads that aren´t shown on the map yet, or the length of the journey is entirely different from what it tells you. The latter was the case here. The drive from Shkoder to Theth is taking around 4 hours. It can be less or can be more, depending on the road conditions. At the end of the road, we were driving at a walking pace. There is no two-way traffic, and at some parts to the right of the street is a steep slope and the mountain on the other side. But despite the long bumpy way, it is certainly worth the trip. After the venture you will reach this calm, relaxed place in the middle of the mountains: Theth.

Theth – the hidden gem surrounded by mountains in Albania

This village isn’t so easy to reach, which makes it a real hidden gem. It is a remote valley village surrounded by the Albanian Alps. If you have the time, spend more nights here as there are many things to do. For instance, the hike to the Blue Eye of Theth, which is a lake, and the waterfall, various viewpoints, relax in the sun or get drunk from Raki, a traditional Balkan alcoholic beverage.

In Theth there are many guesthouses run by locals. The hospitality I experienced in this little village was outstanding. I stayed in the Dreni Guesthouse, which I can highly recommend. This Guesthouse is a wooden house near the Reconciliation Tower. An older Albanian man, the owner, is very hospitable, and we got served a delicious dinner.

The Theth to Valbona hike

The Valbona track starts at the other end of the Dreni Guesthouse. You should start the hike in the early morning hours.

The way to the track is mainly flat, but once the altitude increases, the trail gets steeper and steeper until shortly before the pass. On the way, there are small huts that serve tea, coffee and some snacks. As well as water fountains to refill your drinking bottle. Coming from the Theth side, there is one hut on the way to the pass and from the descent on the way to Valbona three to four.

The pass is overlooking the mountains and into the valley towards Valbona, with an empty riverbed. It doesn’t really invite for a longer break, as there is no comfortable space to sit down. However, shortly before the pass are some meadows that are suitable for taking longer midday breaks.

From the past, it’s only going downwards. After the steep downhill part, a long flat stretch along the empty riverbed opens up. Soon you will reach the first houses of Valbona, still, there is some way in front of you, depending on which guest house you are going to.

The hike in this hidden mountain paradise in Europe takes around 8 hours and is 17 kilometers long.

The hiking experience

As an Austrian, I’m used to hiking, though I was not too fond of it when I was younger. I think the hike is not easy. It’s doable for people who aren’t used to hiking so much. But remember it is steep! It requires a moderate level of fitness and endurance.

The area reminded me a lot of my home area. It was beautiful. To be honest, I was a bit disappointed with the overall experience of the trail as I was missing the water. The empty riverbed looked very sad. Probably it depends on which time of year you go there. I was there in late September, and it was a hot and dry month. It is for sure a different experience if the month would have been rainier or hiking the trail during the springtime.

Valbona – the opposite of Theth and the onward journey

Valbona is nothing like Theth. It is traceable by a broad asphalted road and has enormous hotel complexes. There you can’t find the charming little mountain village atmosphere that Theth offers. As it is easier accessible, it seems more touristy. The bunkers scattered at the beginning of the village will also attract your attention.

From Valbona you will finish your roundtrip to Shkoder, by another full-day adventure via boat and bus. So, if you feel super tired from the hike it is worth considering staying in Valbona for more than one night.

Adventurous touring through Albanian mountain roads and lake Komani

The return trip to Shkoder can be conveniently booked through your guesthouse. The trip starts in the morning around 10:30, first, you will go by bus for two hours to the ferry of Komani. Then another two hours on the boat. The view is impressive: from the clear water of the river, the rocks of the steep mountains rise. Around every corner, a different, stunning landscape view opens.

After getting from the boat get ready for another bumpy road in front of you. This is a long stretch of dirt road along the river that eventually brings you to the main road leading to Shkoder. This trip takes another two hours.

However, the times can vary, and it could take some while for the ferry to arrive. This adventure in Albania was for me a bit too long, especially after the hike, it totally took eight and a half hours from the guest house to the hostel in Shkoder.